yohji yamamoto fall winter 1996/97
The seven pleats of the hakama
The pleats of a hakama are representations of what embodies kendo. It is what we, as practitioners must keep a forefront of our minds to become complete human beings. In caring for our hakamas, by ensuring the pleats are well defined, we demonstrate our commitments to the virtues that are represented, within ourselves and as a kendo practitioner.
The front pleats
Jin (仁): Benevolence
An inclination to perform kind and charitable acts. Show mercy and kindness.Gi (義): Justice
Righteousness. The act of upholding morality and fairness.Rei (礼): Etiquette
A way in which to conduct oneself to show courtesy and respect to oneself, the dojo and to other people.Chi (智): Intelligence
Wisdom. The ability to learn, understand and reason new and daunting situations, ideals and challenges. Having a deep understanding of the world around oneself within our thoughts, actions and words.Shin (義): Trust
Sincerity.Firm belief in the reliability, truth, ability, or strength of someone or something.The back pleats
Makoto (誠): Truth, Faithfulness, honesty, fidelity, devotion, reality
The back pleats amongst many schools of thought refer to ones parents.
Chu (忠): Loyalty
To give strong support or allegiance.Koh (孝): Filial Piety
To be dutiful yowards ones parents. Showing respect, dovotion and honor for ones parents.
TARE (垂れ ,たれ)
Leg and groin protector
This part is not considered as a valid point area. The tare is a thick cloth belt that wraps around the waist and ties under the front flap in front of the groin. Sturdy cloth covered flaps hang from the belt to protect the upper legs and groin. The flaps run along half of the belt’s length, which should be positioned over the front half of the body.
The center flap is usually covered with a name tag (zekken (ゼッケン), or nafuda (名札 ,なふだ) that identifies the name of the wearer and the dojo or country they represent. There is no target point on tare, it is for protection against off-target and accidental strikes.
(via ossadifarfalla)
Update: V&A at Dundee shortlist designs
The six designs are now on exhibition at the library of Abertay University on Bell Street in Dundee until November 4th.
“Despite an increased need to accommodate change, contemporary design still relies on an antiquated version of flexibility: one size fits all. The ultimate result of this simplification, however, is each program competing for survival in an unresponsive building. Holding program clusters distinct and addressing potential evolutions on individual terms allows each cluster’s design to develop and subsequently evolve after building completion without sacrificing the capabilities of any other. The V&A at Dundee’s program can be clearly divided into four groups: by retaining a level of autonomy between these program types, a malleable organisation can be formed, robust enough to accept stakeholder feedback during design and beyond without jeopardizing the building’s overall coherence and beauty. ‘The Bluebell’ takes these responses as the catalysts to its design strategy.”
(Source: nowhere-dan)